Our Unexpected Reality in the Marquesas

‘Laaaaaaaaaand ho!’

The primary shouts drifted by means of the companionway at 0545 on 25 April. Hiva Oa was seen within the pre-dawn mild simply off our starboard bow. French Polynesia: the South Sea Islands.

I lingered in my bunk a minute longer, misplaced in a sleepy stupor from the low drone of the engine. The final hundred miles of the crossing had been frustratingly windless, however there is no such thing as a higher sleep help than fixed rpms.

Once I stepped into the cockpit, the island was shut by to starboard. Excessive inexperienced hills surrounded us on three sides as Falken approached the bay, a ragged ridgeline working down the centre of the island, and black volcanic slopes disappeared into the ocean the place the lengthy south-easterly swell exploded onto the rocky cliffs in excessive plumes of spray. The crew was quiet, gazing on the land like they hadn’t seen any in weeks.

On the breeze got here the wealthy odor of earth, my favorite a part of any landfall and probably the most shocking – and emotional – to first-time passagemakers. We lower the engine a half-mile off and left the Farr 65 Falken to her personal units whereas the crew stripped down and jumped over the facet, whooping into the cool water. Then we motored into the anchorage, threading between a dozen different boats.

Contained in the breakwater the swell nonetheless discovered us, rolling the deck beneath our toes as we rigged the shade awning and popped the champagne. After practically 17 days and three,259 miles, the Marquesas had been ours, and that satisfying sense of accomplishment began sinking in. And but right here’s the factor – if I ever cross the Pacific once more, I would take into account skipping them.

I do know, I do know, that is heresy. The Marquesas are sacred floor for bluewater sailors, one of many all-time iconic ports of name. They’re the legendary first landfall after the lengthy haul from the Americas, the stuff of legendary sea tales and Polynesian fantasies. The dream.

The truth was weeks rolling at anchor and biblical rain. Weary after practically three weeks at sea and eager for relaxation and respite, I finally discovered what I used to be on the lookout for additional south-west, within the Tuamotus and eventually Tahiti – nonetheless lagoons, coconut palms, unfathomably blue water, and deep relaxation.

Enchanted Isles

My South Pacific passage started by flying into the Galapagos to skipper Falken, which felt like dishonest. In 36 hours I’d gone from taking part in with my five-year-old son on his trampoline in Sweden, to south of the equator, midway across the planet, experiencing the surreal method time bends on long-haul worldwide flights.

The Galapagos jogged my memory in a curious method of Svalbard – a bunch of distant, unique islands, a closely protected surroundings and an abundance of uncommon wildlife that you simply solely see in these particular locations. That the 2 islands are separated by 80° of latitude is moot. The place walrus and polar bears preside over the icy panorama up north, sea lions, blue-footed boobies and large tortoises dot the terrain within the south.

The ocean lions are notably entertaining – in San Cristobal they personal the waterfront, sleeping on park benches, occupying the transoms of boats who don’t put up sufficient fender defences, and barking at anybody who comes too shut.

Earlier than our ocean departure, first mate Emily Caruso ran the crew by means of MOB drills: level one: keep on the boat. The water was heat and calm, so we did dwell restoration observe. It was a hell of a job hauling somebody up Falken’s excessive topsides, even in flat calm at anchor in comparison with the rolling Pacific swells coming our method. The drill did its job of constructing everybody assume like a sailor: concentrate and, above all, don’t fall in.

directions from skipper Andy Schell for the crew working ahead. Photograph: Aidan Grey

Pollywogs & Shellbacks

We crossed the equator southbound simply because the solar was kissing the horizon to the west. To mark the second the crew shut down the engine and fired a cannon salute (sure, Falken carries a small cannon), and with that King Neptune appeared. His confederate ‘Davy Jones’ learn our supposed crimes in opposition to the deep – steering too broad, sleeping too lengthy, being common ‘ne’er-do-wells’ – and sentenced us accordingly.

My punishment was a ‘haircut’ from the Royal Barber, whose equipment consisted of a bucket of saltwater and a pair of security scissors. We drank Physician Doom’s foul elixir, sang shanties, and banged spoons on a pot within the place of a drum. We graduated from Pollywogs to Shellbacks, initiated into Neptune’s realm.

However the wind didn’t return. The engine went again on, the sails stayed limp, and our ceremony light into the monotonous cacophony of the iron genny. For days we pushed on, the boat rolling in a low swell, the rig shuddering each time the growth and the ocean obtained out of sync. Previous sea captains cursed calms greater than storms for the injury they did to ship’s gear and crew morale. We had been capable of tick off 350 miles beneath energy in two days – a far cry from the weeks the square-riggers may very well be becalmed right here – however irritating all the identical. Endurance within the doldrums is simple to evangelise however arduous to dwell.

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The tropical South Pacific can also be sizzling. And really humid. Nothing may have ready us for the warmth of equatorial crusing. After we slept, our our bodies left an imprint in opposition to the sheets like against the law scene define, however in sweat.

Exterior it was marginally cooler within the breeze, however then we needed to keep away from the solar. We had an umbrella rigged up within the cockpit to offer just a little additional shade (this regardless of the superstitious implications – umbrellas on board, like bananas, are thought-about very unhealthy luck at sea). The one shade earlier than midday was a small sliver subsequent to the mast on the port facet, which had develop into a preferred spot for the on-watch whereas taking turns driving.

1,000 MILES Offshore

When the south-east trades lastly crammed in, Falken flat-out flew, masking 225-plus miles for eight consecutive days. The crusing was easy; a poled out yankee and reefed mainsail made for fingertip steering, with every watch gunning for the browsing file. We repeatedly hit double-digit speeds, and topped out at over 16 knots.

Sea lions rule the roost in San Cristobal, Galapagos.Photograph: Aidan Grey

Although grateful for the wind, we hadn’t had many really nice starry nights on the passage. However one specific night late into the passage, they had been out in full splendour. The Milky Method dazzled to port, the Southern Cross misplaced among the many myriad stars surrounding it. The Large Dipper hovered on the horizon to starboard, its pointer stars aimed toward Polaris, now effectively beneath the northern horizon from our perspective within the Southern Hemisphere.

Arcturus and Spica, two of the brightest, had been seen behind the helmsman’s head. It’s unimaginable to correctly describe how beautiful a completely starlit sky is at sea, the place the one mild air pollution for a thousand miles is the masthead tricolour weaving round aloft because the boat pitches and rolls.

Whereas we nonetheless had an extended solution to sail, by now the cracks had began to point out within the crew’s resolve to remain within the second. I used to be partly guilty – I’d raised the subject one evening of what meals everybody was most wanting ahead to consuming after we arrived ashore (the right reply is all the time a cheeseburger and a chilly beer). However we hadn’t totally damaged the spell.

The celebrities that evening had been a reminder to remain current. Falken had sailed 2,307 miles, with 1,000 extra to go.

The Marquesas off the port bow after 17 days at sea. Photograph: Aidan Grey

Marquesas to Starboard?

However our mid-ocean dreaming of burgers and beer will get to the core of why I would take into account skipping the Marquesas subsequent time. What’s it that you really want most after an extended passage? Not having a chance for that first nice meal ashore (there may be one mediocre restaurant on the waterfront in Nuku Hiva) nagged at me.

Voyaging in distant locations is a sequence of steady ups and downs, emotionally and bodily, they usually are inclined to steadiness one another out over the long run. The Marquesas are spectacularly, exotically lovely, however they’re hardly ever snug. Anchorages are tight, deep, or uncovered. In contrast to the Caribbean, there aren’t retailers and cafes on the waterfront – solely goats, horses and an open-air market (although the French grocery retailer was well-stocked and the ironmongery store useful).

Refuelling required a jerry can shuffle within the dinghy. I readily acknowledge that for a lot of these are merely options of the journey, not a damaging. However I’d by no means actually heard anybody point out it earlier than. I’m additionally not a typical cruiser, Falken isn’t your typical cruising boat. It’s a enterprise. Between 59° North passages with paying crew, we often have only a few days of staying put to relaxation and reset.

Within the Marquesas we had down time, however weren’t really capable of discover. Dealing with Falken’s large mainsail with no full crew is a challenge in itself, so crusing off to discover a higher anchorage wasn’t on the playing cards.

It was a rolling South Pacific passage. Photograph: Aidan Grey

We did some exploring – hikes into lush valleys, loved beers with different sailors, and accomplished minor boat work. However extra typically it felt like we had been simply ready to depart whereas enduring the warmth, humidity and ‘no-nos’, the horrendous sand flies. I wasn’t really certain we’d ever get out of Nuku Hiva.

After greater than two weeks at anchor in a rolling Taiohae Bay, when the crew arrived for the subsequent leg, days of torrential rain delayed our departure additional when the harbour grew to become flooded with particles washed off the mountains. So when the skies lastly cleared, we bolted.

5 hundred blissful, beam reaching miles later and the distinction between the chaotic anchorage at Taiohae in Nuku Hiva and the tranquillity of Kauehi village within the Tuamotus couldn’t have been any extra stark. The place in Nuku Hiva Falken had rolled closely in an unbroken swell that backwashed in opposition to the seawall, we sat completely nonetheless contained in the protected lagoon at Kauehi atoll.

In Kauehi the sea-level elevation allowed the breeze to blow freely, and saved the bugs away. Crystal-clear water was highlighted in spectacular shades of turquoise and deep blue, sometimes disturbed by yellow-tinted lemon sharks that swam by the boat. We spent two blissful nights right here, stress-free and exploring. With no cell service on the village, refreshingly no person was even on their telephones.

Not with the ability to take pleasure in the identical little luxuries that had accompanied all my Atlantic landfalls after an extended stint as sea maybe clouded my judgement of Hiva Oa and Nuku Hiva. And a type of is with the ability to sleep on a nonetheless boat. There aren’t any docks wherever within the Marquesas and, with no fringing reef and constant swell, there are additionally no calm anchorages.

South Pacific cruising isn’t all the time shiny skies and blue seas. Photograph: Aidan Grey

The pressure of spending three weeks at sea isn’t relieved in the identical method it’s relieved in say, Horta. It wasn’t till Tahiti, seven weeks after I’d joined Falken within the Galapagos, that we lastly obtained that actually cathartic second of luxurious launch.

Tahiti was acquainted, in each the perfect and worst senses of the phrase. Excessive-end marinas – or a protected anchorage contained in the reef at a lot much less value; an enormous air-conditioned Carrefour grocery retailer; hipster smoothies on the seaside bar; rum distilleries and rainforest hikes. It was all the things a crew fantasises about in direction of the tail finish of any lengthy passage.

With its protected lagoons, fruit falling from the sky, pleasant individuals, and French delicacies galore, Tahiti is like true paradise – why would you ever select to go away? However for me, the passage led to Tahiti, each actually and figuratively. I flew residence after every week exploring the island and recouping my power from the lengthy ocean passage.

Returning desires

Expectations dictate what you get out of a voyage. With hindsight, I realise my first Pacific crossing was concerning the South Seas fable on the expense of having fun with among the actuality. For my second Pacific crossing – and there must be a second – I do know I can select our personal path. However, actually, I don’t assume I may resist going again.

59° North’s Falken is a 65ft Bruce Farr design in-built 1999, initially for a around the world race. Photograph: 59° North Crusing

As a result of for all my griping, you merely can’t miss the Marquesas. The sense of accomplishment of arrival after 3,000 miles at sea is unmatched. The cultural depth – from the tattoo traditions to the unique feasts – is in contrast to wherever else. You’re not being bought something within the Marquesas, which can have annoyed my yearnings for a post-crossing reward, however within the second is kind of the reduction.

And that first sight of land after weeks at sea… there’s nothing prefer it. One morning you’re an empty horizon, the subsequent at unfathomably steep mountains carved from the ocean. So if you happen to’re crossing the Pacific for the primary time, positively don’t keep away from the Marquesas.

As an alternative, calibrate your expectations. It’s really easy within the age of Starlink to anticipate that wherever you go, issues will all the time be roughly the identical. Go away all that behind, and expertise the Marquesas for what they’re – an remoted outpost in the midst of the huge Pacific with among the most dramatic surroundings and friendliest individuals on Earth. Ignore my heretic sizzling take. Go.

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