Croatia is a yacht charter destination that is chock-full of surprises

Why constitution? To have a deserved break afloat; to sail someplace totally different; to strive before you purchase, particularly if deciding between monohull and multihull; to see if it’s one thing your crew enjoys earlier than embarking on longer-term cruising. Or all the above.

For us, the plan appeared clear. After a decade of UK summers (an oxymoron!), the place our household of 4 enjoys crusing dinghies and weekending our classic micro-cruiser, it was time for some extra dependable, sunny cruising. And the prospect to strive a contemporary manufacturing monohull introduced a perfect alternative for our daughters (9 and 13) to progress into yacht crusing.

Dubrovnik has grow to be a Mediterranean cruising mecca. Not solely is the ‘pearl of the Adriatic’ a UNESCO world heritage website to set sail from, with an previous city made additional standard by Sport of Thrones, however the islands strewn between right here and Cut up provide a few of the most enchanting, manageable cruising.

However I’d beforehand been postpone the thought of chartering throughout summer season faculty holidays, contemplating it too scorching, costly and, most of all, crowded. Fortunately, none of those preconceptions performed out. In actual fact, from arriving in late July at Sunsail’s Dubrovnik base onwards, every part was charming. I might add surprisingly so – nonetheless there have been some surprises in retailer.

As a consequence of work commitments, we missed the primary two days, compressing our week’s constitution, however with the islands all mendacity to the north-west, routing choices are straightforward not less than – if the wind co-operates!

Filled with surprises

I used to be genuinely impressed with the standard of ACI Marina, the Sunsail base, its workers and tools. Had been you stormbound you can fortunately whereas away just a few days right here – it’s straightforward to get into the previous city, whereas quiet and enjoyable with an outstanding pool and restaurant (Zephyrus YC), a well-stocked mini grocery store and good on-site amenities.

Certainly, regardless of usually itching to get straight off to a pleasant anchorage, we stayed put… our solely night time in a marina (and it was free!). It was a Monday so it was quiet, a powerful wind was forecast that night time and we had a small tech problem so determined to calm down, victual, and benefit from the amenities.

The primary actual shock got here on boarding. I do know the Dufour 41 having examined it the 12 months earlier than, so whereas the brand new voluminous boat was anticipated, the extent of apparatus it included was eye-opening. It was full of mod cons I hadn’t even thought of for a 40-footer, together with aircon, genset, watermaker, freezer, microwave, electrical bathrooms…

Article continues under…

For us the electrical outboard on the Highfield RIB was the most important hit, eliminating smells and noise and ideally suited for the children to up their helming confidence. Figuring out most Sunsail yachts are in possession programmes, I puzzled how such a excessive commonplace spec stage is set and works out financially, so, on the finish of the constitution, spoke with specialist Julian Adams – see panel, web page 61.

Almost certainly we now have all skilled some drained constitution boats earlier than, and it felt luxurious to step aboard a shiny new mannequin. After all, whereas a luxurious to have, all this stuff ramp up the complexity and hog most stowage area. Our rep acknowledged this and even prompt utilizing one of many three heads to stow the fenders.

The view of Lucas Taverna whereas moored stern-to.

Sadly, we couldn’t get a chart briefing as a result of the specialist was off on an emergency – the draw back of not arriving on the same old handover day. However the briefing movies are good and base supervisor Keith Harvey may be very thorough together with his drone footage of every space and zones of warning.

I’m clearly old-fashioned as a result of I nonetheless crave paper, together with charts, cruising guides, prompt itineraries and so on. Nevertheless, it’s now all set as much as be digital solely.

That feeling of leaving the marina, motoring out of the channel and first hoisting sails is priceless. Šunj on Lopud is the right straightforward first/final hop, little greater than an hour from the bustling metropolis, and affords gorgeous clear water to laze and swim in, an amuse bouche of what was to come back.

a quiet, protected nook in Polače, anchored with a stern line to a rock. Picture: Kelagopian/Sunsail

Nonetheless not realizing how busy future locations can be, I phoned forward to the Lukas Taverna at Kobaš within the Ston channel, and was met with a reassuring ‘no downside’. We’d had some native suggestions from a Yachting World reader, however the Sunsail staff can also be responsive and useful with recommendation on WhatsApp.

Whereas my fellow charterers have been quiet that week, I later noticed simply how nicely some used it for reside suggestions and any tech queries. Likewise, Harvey’s day by day climate briefings are top quality.

Crusing to shellfish

Crusing up the channel between Lopud and Šipan (Eliphati) islands and the mainland introduced the second shock: simply how shortly and violently the situations can change right here. Many will know the mountainous backdrop performs an enormous half within the native climate and cruising right here, significantly thunderstorm exercise. And the wind can change in a short time too. On this case we have been crusing in 7 knots when a 20-knot wind band hit with a forty five° change in its course.

Our heavenly spot off Pomen

This led on to the following shock: we have been to not get the crusing expertise I’d loved on the take a look at boat the 12 months earlier than, sorry children. All that gear clearly comes at a value: weight. Then consider white sails solely, the drag of a set three-blade prop and towing a RIB dinghy and pointing and headway capacity clearly diminish.

That stated my ‘first mate’, my eldest daughter, proved an efficient hand, and the electrical winches and stackpack made crusing a doddle. Additionally, at 40ft, the hundreds are all comparatively mild, so it’s straightforward sufficient to tug halyards by hand and shortly unfurl/furl sails for that impulsive 10-minute spell of crusing.

KobaŠ is a pleasant cove with a few eating places, together with Lukas, which belongs to ‘no downside’ Nicolas’ household. They gave us a pleasant welcome and helped us dock stern-to, with 50cm of clear water under our rudder. Father instructed tales to visitors over a glass or two, whereas mom knocked up some memorable seafood. We’d heard the oysters in these waters are supposed to be a few of the finest on this planet and so they didn’t disappoint. Equally the calamari and (very) native chardonnay have been wonderful (the key is within the cussed vines which develop on rock faces apparently). All definitely worth the inflated costs you pay on the islands (€230 for 4).

It was on discovering our first really idyllic and nearly abandoned anchorage the next morning that we started to understand simply how particular these waters are. You go giddy with pleasure, juggling between making an attempt to seize it on digital camera and regularly eager to plunge into the intoxicating palette of blues. In actual fact, the remainder of our voyage centred on looking for essentially the most lovely waters to anchor and swim in. The selection is spellbinding.

Our voyage was considered one of discovering such delights, with laughs and cool-offs alongside the best way

Lazy tempo

With the sunshine breeze nonetheless from the north-west (on the nostril), any progress alongside the Mljet coast wanted to be completed underneath energy. However these longer passages, significantly motorsailing in calm seas, have been splendidly enjoyable.

It offered correct household time, with occasional cool-offs and tow-alongs, all whereas skirting the shoreline and poking our noses into any inlets that appeared inviting.

Mljet is 90% vegetation, and full of those attractive pitstops, significantly across the protected marine nationwide park on the northern finish.

Winding by means of the pleasant channels en path to its Polače coronary heart, we handed quite a few superyachts parked stern-to their most popular rocks in a few of the choicest spots, so we have been then thrilled to discover a quiet nook with a very good stake to tie a stern line to within the protected anchorage reverse the city.

Polače has loads of eating places, a dinghy dock and helpful small retailers. Bike and e-bike rental shops abound as vacationers sometimes cycle from right here to the salt lakes (too scorching for us, thanks).

Watching the setting solar from the distant nature reserve Lastovo.

Those that moor on the many restaurant quays and eat there keep away from the €120 park price, however after getting recent provides through dinghy we have been too content material with our anchorage spot and ate aboard that night time. This helped affirm that the Dufour’s transom dinette/grill setup is a major characteristic. Barbecuing in boardshorts, diving in to chill off, and ending with an aft platform bathe is the life!

Across the headland is Pomena the place we stumbled upon essentially the most gorgeous small shoal by an islet, a patch of white sand massive sufficient to exactly drop the decide into with simply sufficient scope throughout a peaceful daytime. It was essentially the most inviting water I’ve seen, our tiny slice of paradise.

From right here it’s a must to resolve whether or not to remain native, as in Mljet and the PeljeŠac peninsula, or strike out for Korčula, with its postcard previous city, or the extra distant Lastovo, a 20-mile sail west. We solely had two extra nights, however the mystique of Lastovo beckoned.

After a protracted afternoon crossing in a dying breeze, we buzzed the north a part of the island to glimpse Lastovo city nestled excessive within the hills, danced to cockpit tunes as we took within the western finish earlier than reaching Pasadur in time for sundowners. The anchorages and submarine pen space appeared busy so we settled for a buoy (€40 on prime of the three-day €40 nationwide park price), which introduced peace of thoughts and one other gorgeous swimming location.

Medieval previous city of Korčula. Navigation is straightforward line of sight between islands.

A biodiversity treasure with a few of the richest botanical areas within the Med, Lastovo was declared a nature park in 2006.

Sure, in hindsight, it was a protracted method to go on our timeframe (and additional to return into the climate), however to see the children be water rats till after darkish, then lie with them on the foredeck stargazing at what is alleged to be the second darkest night time sky in Europe, cast an everlasting reminiscence.

Weighing it up

Usually when handing the boat again the following day it is sensible to get to a straightforward radius from the bottom. Which was our intention, sincere. However after a protracted morning of beating into an unforecast wind and swell, it was too tempting to not divert again to our paradisiacal patch off Pomena, which proved so enjoyable we ended up staying that night time. After all of the forecast was settled now wasn’t it?!Scoping out the assorted eating places and watching different visiting yachts declare their spots (a enjoyable pastime) we settled on the pleasant fish restaurant Konoba Herc reverse, solely nudging in there after our last sundown swim.

From essentially the most tranquil night I woke to mayhem at 2am as an enormous thunderstorm hit. Having checked all strains and fenders and bought totally drenched I fretted about tips on how to get again to Dubrovnik if the storm continued. Regardless of a disconcerting night time and tentative departure, the skies and seas settled nearly immediately by morning, leaving mirror calm situations for the 40-mile return, albeit underneath the iron headsail (with extra idyllic swim stops).

The Dufour’s aft grill and bathing platform get the seal of approval

The re-fuelling and handover was slick, with wonderful directions. And since we’d elected to remain on in Dubrovnik for an additional couple of days, there was no panic to get to the airport. As an alternative, a chauffeured transit awaited to take us on to extra rest – thanks Sunsail.

So once more, why constitution? It’s 3°C and mizzle as I write this, the times barely bothering to get mild. Nevertheless, I’m picturing that water, the laughs, the lifelong recollections. A crusing vacation afloat collectively can guarantee high quality household time which explains many crave repeats as their youngsters age.

I do know we do.

Constitution cruising suggestions

If doable permit time earlier than or after. Get the cheaper flights. Decompress. We stayed between the airport and marina for a protracted weekend from the place it was a €20 taxi into the previous city or again to the airport.

Don’t overstretch your self. On a digital chart all of it appears manageable, however a 5- to 7-hour sail is a protracted slog underneath energy! I’m my very own worst enemy, eager to see each final inlet. However that may restrict time exploring ashore.

If crusing is a precedence, you might must restrict your cruising radius. As an alternative of making an attempt to sail from A to B, think about simply going for pleasure sails on the optimum angles and in the very best breezes.

Marinas in Croatia are significantly costly (round €75-150 an evening)! With the plethora of gorgeous anchorages and restaurant docks, they are often prevented until weather-bound or sight-seeing sure cities.

When you loved this….

Yachting World is the world’s main journal for bluewater cruisers and offshore sailors. Each month we now have inspirational adventures and sensible options that will help you realise your crusing desires.

Construct your information with a subscription delivered to your door. See our newest affords and save not less than 30% off the duvet worth.