Croatia is a yacht charter destination that is chock-full of surprises

Why constitution? To have a deserved break afloat; to sail someplace completely different; to strive before you purchase, particularly if deciding between monohull and multihull; to see if it’s one thing your crew enjoys earlier than embarking on longer-term cruising. Or all the above.

For us, the plan appeared clear. After a decade of UK summers (an oxymoron!), the place our household of 4 enjoys crusing dinghies and weekending our classic micro-cruiser, it was time for some extra dependable, sunny cruising. And the prospect to strive a contemporary manufacturing monohull introduced an excellent alternative for our daughters (9 and 13) to progress into yacht crusing.

Dubrovnik has turn out to be a Mediterranean cruising mecca. Not solely is the ‘pearl of the Adriatic’ a UNESCO world heritage web site to set sail from, with an previous city made further standard by Sport of Thrones, however the islands strewn between right here and Break up supply a few of the most enchanting, manageable cruising.

However I’d beforehand been delay the thought of chartering throughout summer time college holidays, contemplating it too scorching, costly and, most of all, crowded. Fortunately, none of those preconceptions performed out. The truth is, from arriving in late July at Sunsail’s Dubrovnik base onwards, all the things was charming. I’d add surprisingly so – nevertheless there have been some surprises in retailer.

Attributable to work commitments, we missed the primary two days, compressing our week’s constitution, however with the islands all mendacity to the north-west, routing choices are simple a minimum of – if the wind co-operates!

Stuffed with surprises

I used to be genuinely impressed with the standard of ACI Marina, the Sunsail base, its workers and tools. Have been you stormbound you could possibly fortunately whereas away just a few days right here – it’s simple to get into the previous city, whereas quiet and enjoyable with an excellent pool and restaurant (Zephyrus YC), a well-stocked mini grocery store and good on-site amenities.

Certainly, regardless of usually itching to get straight off to a pleasant anchorage, we stayed put… our solely evening in a marina (and it was free!). It was a Monday so it was quiet, a robust wind was forecast that evening and we had a small tech problem so determined to calm down, victual, and benefit from the amenities.

The primary actual shock got here on boarding. I do know the Dufour 41 having examined it the yr earlier than, so whereas the brand new voluminous boat was anticipated, the extent of apparatus it included was eye-opening. It was filled with mod cons I hadn’t even thought of for a 40-footer, together with aircon, genset, watermaker, freezer, microwave, electrical bogs…

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For us the electrical outboard on the Highfield RIB was the most important hit, eliminating smells and noise and best for the youngsters to up their helming confidence. Realizing most Sunsail yachts are in possession programmes, I questioned how such a excessive commonplace spec degree is determined and works out financially, so, on the finish of the constitution, spoke with specialist Julian Adams – see panel, web page 61.

Almost definitely we have now all skilled some drained constitution boats earlier than, and it felt luxurious to step aboard a shiny new mannequin. In fact, whereas a luxurious to have, all this stuff ramp up the complexity and hog most stowage area. Our rep acknowledged this and even prompt utilizing one of many three heads to stow the fenders.

The view of Lucas Taverna whereas moored stern-to.

Sadly, we couldn’t get a chart briefing as a result of the specialist was off on an emergency – the draw back of not arriving on the same old handover day. However the briefing movies are good and base supervisor Keith Harvey may be very thorough together with his drone footage of every space and zones of warning.

I’m clearly old fashioned as a result of I nonetheless crave paper, together with charts, cruising guides, prompt itineraries and so forth. Nevertheless, it’s now all set as much as be digital solely.

That feeling of leaving the marina, motoring out of the channel and first hoisting sails is priceless. Šunj on Lopud is the proper simple first/final hop, little greater than an hour from the bustling metropolis, and presents beautiful clear water to laze and swim in, an amuse bouche of what was to come back.

a quiet, protected nook in Polače, anchored with a stern line to a rock. Picture: Kelagopian/Sunsail

Nonetheless not realizing how busy future locations can be, I phoned forward to the Lukas Taverna at Kobaš within the Ston channel, and was met with a reassuring ‘no downside’. We’d had some native suggestions from a Yachting World reader, however the Sunsail staff can be responsive and useful with recommendation on WhatsApp.

Whereas my fellow charterers had been quiet that week, I later noticed simply how nicely some used it for dwell suggestions and any tech queries. Likewise, Harvey’s each day climate briefings are top quality.

Crusing to shellfish

Crusing up the channel between Lopud and Šipan (Eliphati) islands and the mainland introduced the second shock: simply how shortly and violently the circumstances can change right here. Many will know the mountainous backdrop performs an enormous half within the native climate and cruising right here, notably thunderstorm exercise. And the wind can change in a short time too. On this case we had been crusing in 7 knots when a 20-knot wind band hit with a forty five° change in its route.

Our heavenly spot off Pomen

This led on to the following shock: we had been to not get the crusing expertise I’d loved on the take a look at boat the yr earlier than, sorry youngsters. All that gear clearly comes at a value: weight. Then consider white sails solely, the drag of a set three-blade prop and towing a RIB dinghy and pointing and headway potential clearly diminish.

That mentioned my ‘first mate’, my eldest daughter, proved an efficient hand, and the electrical winches and stackpack made crusing a doddle. Additionally, at 40ft, the masses are all comparatively mild, so it’s simple sufficient to tug halyards by hand and shortly unfurl/furl sails for that impulsive 10-minute spell of crusing.

KobaŠ is a pleasant cove with a few eating places, together with Lukas, which belongs to ‘no downside’ Nicolas’ household. They gave us a pleasant welcome and helped us dock stern-to, with 50cm of clear water under our rudder. Father advised tales to visitors over a glass or two, whereas mom knocked up some memorable seafood. We’d heard the oysters in these waters are supposed to be a few of the finest on this planet and so they didn’t disappoint. Equally the calamari and (very) native chardonnay had been glorious (the key is within the cussed vines which develop on rock faces apparently). All definitely worth the inflated costs you pay on the islands (€230 for 4).

It was on discovering our first really idyllic and nearly abandoned anchorage the next morning that we started to understand simply how particular these waters are. You go giddy with pleasure, juggling between attempting to seize it on digicam and frequently eager to plunge into the intoxicating palette of blues. The truth is, the remainder of our voyage centred on looking for essentially the most stunning waters to anchor and swim in. The selection is spellbinding.

Our voyage was certainly one of discovering such delights, with laughs and cool-offs alongside the way in which

Lazy tempo

With the sunshine breeze nonetheless from the north-west (on the nostril), any progress alongside the Mljet coast wanted to be performed underneath energy. However these longer passages, notably motorsailing in calm seas, had been splendidly enjoyable.

It offered correct household time, with occasional cool-offs and tow-alongs, all whereas skirting the shoreline and poking our noses into any inlets that seemed inviting.

Mljet is 90% vegetation, and full of those engaging pitstops, notably across the protected marine nationwide park on the northern finish.

Winding by means of the pleasant channels en path to its Polače coronary heart, we handed quite a few superyachts parked stern-to their most popular rocks in a few of the choicest spots, so we had been then thrilled to discover a quiet nook with an excellent stake to tie a stern line to within the protected anchorage reverse the city.

Polače has loads of eating places, a dinghy dock and helpful small outlets. Bike and e-bike rental shops abound as vacationers sometimes cycle from right here to the salt lakes (too scorching for us, thanks).

Watching the setting solar from the distant nature reserve Lastovo.

Those that moor on the many restaurant quays and eat there keep away from the €120 park charge, however after getting contemporary provides through dinghy we had been too content material with our anchorage spot and ate aboard that evening. This helped verify that the Dufour’s transom dinette/grill setup is a main function. Barbecuing in boardshorts, diving in to chill off, and ending with an aft platform bathe is the life!

Across the headland is Pomena the place we stumbled upon essentially the most beautiful small shoal by an islet, a patch of white sand massive sufficient to exactly drop the decide into with simply sufficient scope throughout a peaceful daytime. It was essentially the most inviting water I’ve seen, our tiny slice of paradise.

From right here you need to resolve whether or not to remain native, as in Mljet and the PeljeŠac peninsula, or strike out for Korčula, with its postcard previous city, or the extra distant Lastovo, a 20-mile sail west. We solely had two extra nights, however the mystique of Lastovo beckoned.

After an extended afternoon crossing in a dying breeze, we buzzed the north a part of the island to glimpse Lastovo city nestled excessive within the hills, danced to cockpit tunes as we took within the western finish earlier than reaching Pasadur in time for sundowners. The anchorages and submarine pen space seemed busy so we settled for a buoy (€40 on prime of the three-day €40 nationwide park charge), which introduced peace of thoughts and one other beautiful swimming location.

Medieval previous city of Korčula. Navigation is straightforward line of sight between islands.

A biodiversity treasure with a few of the richest botanical areas within the Med, Lastovo was declared a nature park in 2006.

Sure, in hindsight, it was an extended strategy to go on our timeframe (and additional to return into the climate), however to see the youngsters be water rats till after darkish, then lie with them on the foredeck stargazing at what is alleged to be the second darkest evening sky in Europe, solid an everlasting reminiscence.

Weighing it up

Usually when handing the boat again the following day it is sensible to get to a straightforward radius from the bottom. Which was our intention, sincere. However after an extended morning of beating into an unforecast wind and swell, it was too tempting to not divert again to our paradisiacal patch off Pomena, which proved so enjoyable we ended up staying that evening. After all of the forecast was settled now wasn’t it?!Scoping out the varied eating places and watching different visiting yachts declare their spots (a enjoyable pastime) we settled on the pleasant fish restaurant Konoba Herc reverse, solely nudging in there after our remaining sundown swim.

From essentially the most tranquil night I woke to mayhem at 2am as an enormous thunderstorm hit. Having checked all strains and fenders and obtained totally drenched I fretted about the right way to get again to Dubrovnik if the storm continued. Regardless of a disconcerting evening and tentative departure, the skies and seas settled nearly immediately by morning, leaving mirror calm circumstances for the 40-mile return, albeit underneath the iron headsail (with extra idyllic swim stops).

The Dufour’s aft grill and bathing platform get the seal of approval

The re-fuelling and handover was slick, with glorious directions. And since we’d elected to remain on in Dubrovnik for an additional couple of days, there was no panic to get to the airport. As a substitute, a chauffeured transit awaited to take us on to extra rest – thanks Sunsail.

So once more, why constitution? It’s 3°C and mizzle as I write this, the times barely bothering to get mild. Nevertheless, I’m picturing that water, the laughs, the lifelong recollections. A crusing vacation afloat collectively can guarantee high quality household time which explains many crave repeats as their kids age.

I do know we do.

Constitution cruising ideas

If potential permit time earlier than or after. Get the cheaper flights. Decompress. We stayed between the airport and marina for an extended weekend from the place it was a €20 taxi into the previous city or again to the airport.

Don’t overstretch your self. On a digital chart all of it appears manageable, however a 5- to 7-hour sail is an extended slog underneath energy! I’m my very own worst enemy, eager to see each final inlet. However that may restrict time exploring ashore.

If crusing is a precedence, you might must restrict your cruising radius. As a substitute of attempting to sail from A to B, take into account simply going for pleasure sails on the optimum angles and in the very best breezes.

Marinas in Croatia are critically costly (round €75-150 an evening)! With the plethora of beautiful anchorages and restaurant docks, they are often averted until weather-bound or sight-seeing sure cities.

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