Years in the past, I made a decision to go to Rome throughout the Christmas holidays. I had been to town a number of instances throughout super-heated summer season days when each museum cease felt like a go to to a steam room.
In December, issues couldn’t have been extra totally different. Skies had been overcast and grey, and the air was chilly. I needed to layer a sweater beneath the skinny jacket I had dropped at get me via the week. Empty streets left me feeling slightly misplaced in a metropolis I believed I knew.
On my first day of touring, I walked to the Pantheon, pulling on gloves to keep at bay the chilly as quickly as I stepped inside the two,000-year-old stone constructing. I had visited in summer season, however I had by no means seen the contours of the constructing from wall to wall and the small print within the large dome. There have been at all times too many individuals.
I seemed on the shaft of sunshine streaming via the oculus and lingered inside, amazed at my luck of getting the place nearly to myself.
By the third day, I had warmed to the chilly. A go to to the at all times busy Colosseum was quiet and sluggish paced. Folks-watching from the highest of the Spanish Steps revealed locals, who appear all however invisible throughout excessive season.
After I was able to rejoin the world, I went to St. Peter’s Sq. on Christmas Eve. I needed to see what it felt prefer to be on the Vatican on the largest Christian vacation of the yr — and so did 1000’s of others. It was a gorgeous and memorable spectacle. I felt grateful for having are available winter, realizing a quieter and extra reflective Rome was ready for me on the opposite aspect of the river.
What about you? Are you recreation for experiencing a few of the Mediterranean’s hottest cities within the off-season? Right here’s the excellent news: Winter within the Mediterranean could be milder than different locations,. Positive, climate could be chilly but it surely’s additionally changeable climate, so don’t let that cease you. It’s additionally a good time of yr to indulge your self in artwork and tradition (to not point out fantastic cafes, wineries, boutiques — January is a giant sale time in Europe — and different easy pleasures).
Since that first winter go to to Rome, I’ve gone again a number of instances and wish to share some locations the place you’ll be able to particularly savor artwork and uncover cultural gems.
Florence
The factor to do in Florence is immerse your self in every thing, whether or not it’s artwork and structure (the capital of Tuscany reportedly comprises extra artwork per sq. mile than wherever else on this planet), wine tastings, superb eating or searching for excessive style and leather-based items. The small, walkable and picturesque metropolis — whose historical past takes you from Roman instances to the Renaissance and past — by no means disappoints.
The classics
Begin your tour of Florence within the Accademia Gallery as a result of it homes one in all Michelangelo’s most well-known works. Irrespective of what number of instances I’ve seen the sculpture of David in photographs, nothing ready me for the dimensions and fantastic thing about seeing it in individual. And don’t skip out on the remainder of the museum. Its Museum of Musical Devices consists of some uncommon items that belonged to the highly effective Medici household. You’ll be able to hear what the devices sound like after they’re performed, due to multimedia shows. One of the crucial beneficial objects: a tenor viola made by Stradivari within the late Seventeenth century.
If you’re prepared, transfer on to the Uffizi, which could be overwhelming for the quantity of artworks inside. I encourage you to craft your technique earlier than you get there! “The Start of Venus” is at all times on the highest of my listing (in winter months there could also be a break from the crowds). Botticelli seemingly by no means dreamed folks within the twenty first century would nonetheless be in search of out his shy goddess of affection rising from a clam shell. Tempo your self within the galleries stuffed with famed Renaissance artists. Don’t miss “Primavera,” additionally by Botticelli, or Caravaggio’s disturbing depiction of Medusa, and likewise wander into random galleries and spend time discovering lesser-known gems.
Different key websites
You can’t go to Florence with out visiting the 600-year-old Duomo, the large, ornate church formally often known as Santa Maria del Fiore Cathedral within the metropolis middle. I like to recommend taking the virtually 500 stairs to the highest of the wonderful dome by Brunelleschi, a feat of structure that gives views of town. If you’re prepared for some retail remedy, head to the Florence Leather-based College, the place college students apprentice in all features of leatherworks. The present store options handmade items that vary from luggage, together with messenger luggage, to gloves and jackets.
I like “home museums” as a result of they usually depict how a household lives, from the rich to the on a regular basis individual. Casa Martelli supplies a glimpse of aristocratic life in Seventeenth-century Florence. The design of the home is as fascinating because the artwork inside: murals that flip rooms into countryside retreats and lavish halls embellished in vivid colours.
Favourite discoveries
Positioned within the coronary heart of town, Florence’s Mercato Centrale. The area, situated within the historic San Lorenzo Market, has solely simply celebrated its tenth anniversary. There are two flooring; on the bottom degree you’ll discover the extra typical meals stalls that you simply see in markets. Season allowing (I used to be there in March which isn’t an considerable time of recent foodstuffs), you’ll discover flowers, recent fish, butcher outlets, domestically grown greens and wine (plus just a few alternatives to purchase souvenirs). Extra rewarding is the ground above, which is a festive meals corridor, the place you will discover freshly ready dishes starting from roast hen to something made with truffles. There are just a few outlets right here, too, they usually promote pricier, artisan-styled present objects (like 36 euro ceramic pitchers of olive oil).
For me, one museum discover that took me out of the Renaissance and into the twentieth century was the just lately revamped Home of Gucci. It’s arty and wacky and visually thrilling and also you don’t should be overly enamored with its assortment of robes, tuxedoes and purses to seek out it, frankly, fascinating. There’s a present store with one in all sort objects (some nice sneakers and purses). It is a bit difficult to seek out (seemingly on function) as a result of the doorway is unmarked, simply be aware that it’s #10 (and it’s subsequent door to a Gucci restaurant by Michelin chef Massimo Bottura.
In the case of locations of worship, there’s no lack of them in Florence. The Orsanmichele hardly ever makes most vacationers’ lists and it ought to. It’s housed in a 14th-century market the place rich retailers of the day competed to make this the best church round. The outcome: beautiful sculptures of saints outdoors the constructing and an ornate, over-the-top tabernacle inside.
When you’re craving a very nice, actually native Florentine lunch, one of the best meal of my most up-to-date journey in March 2024 was Il Santo Bevitore. It’s on the “different” aspect of the Arno (simply cross the Arno through the Ponte Vecchio bridge, take the primary proper, and it’s about three blocks down in a neighborhood known as Santo Spirito. The menu is small, seasonal and thoughtfully chosen. Similar goes for the wine listing. I acquired fortunate on a Tuesday afternoon and scored one of many final tables; it’s a locals’ place so ensure to e book yours forward.
Must know
Anticipate daytime excessive temperatures within the 50s F and lows within the 30s and 40s F in January via March. Cruise ships dock on the port of Livorno, about 75 miles away; you could wish to e book transportation to and from the ship via the cruise line. Different locations to go to within the area embrace the medieval walled metropolis of Lucca and the ever-famous Leaning Tower of Pisa.
Barcelona
On my first go to to Barcelona, I believed I might spend most of my time hanging out on the seashore in Barceloneta, strolling alongside the famed Las Ramblas boulevard, consuming infinite plates of tapas, and biking round metropolis streets. They had been tons of enjoyable — and but what struck me was how immersed I grew to become nearly by chance, within the metropolis’s Roman and Gothic histories, and its structure, from historical to up to date. I hope you, too, will come to know the sweetness and fiercely impartial character of this metropolis.
The classics
The primary one is straightforward: architect Antonio Gaudi! It’s simple to fall in love with along with his work, no guidebook required. I stepped contained in the architect’s La Sagrada Famiglia cathedral and surrendered to his very private tribute to the glory of God. Symbols of nature abound. Impossibly tall tree-like columns line the nave. Rays of daylight pour in via stained-glass home windows that act like a coloration wheel, setting every thing aglow. No Roman Catholic Church can put together you for such a singular, creative triumph of religion and faith. It stays a piece in progress (Gaudi died earlier than he might end the cathedral); town is predicted to finish it in 2026.
A half hour’s stroll as much as Carmel Hill led to Park Guell, one other Gaudi creation. Sit peacefully on the serpentine bench inlaid with tile mosaics that snakes round the primary sq. and people-watch. From right here, you’ll be able to look down on what was presupposed to be a neighborhood of posh homes set into a big park. Just a few of the homes ever acquired constructed (Gaudi lived in one in all them, and it’s now a namesake museum), however the gateway, winding footpaths, plaza and different remnants of the deliberate neighborhood stay. The big mosaic lizard is a must-see. I fell for the enormous, concrete chook nests resting atop columns that lined a footpath.
Subsequent Gaudi cease: La Pedrera, initially often known as Casa Mila, which was commissioned to accommodate a household dwelling and residences. The nine-story stone constructing seems to defy gravity with a floating, undulating facade. To stroll inside is to witness Gaudi’s genius at work. I couldn’t discover a straight line in sight. It was controversial for its design when it was constructed on the flip of the twentieth century, ultimately fell into disrepair and was restored within the Nineteen Eighties.
Different key websites
On a strolling tour of the Gothic Quarter, you’ll discover remnants of historical Roman partitions and a cathedral that serves as a counterpoint to Gaudi’s modernist creations. Formally often known as the Cathedral of the Holy Cross and Saint Eulalie, the church displays layers of time intervals. It was began within the 1200s however the large gothic facade was constructed 500 years later. Essentially the most stunning website: 13 reside geese that wander within the cathedral’s backyard and cloisters. The variety of geese is a dwelling tribute to St. Eulalia, additionally one of many metropolis’s patron saints, who saved geese and at age 13 was martyred and crucified. She’s buried inside within the crypt.
Simply behind the cathedral is the Museum Frederic Mares. It holds a little bit of every thing, which is a part of its allure. The namesake Mares, a sculptor, collected issues he favored, which included every thing from thirteenth and 14th century Spanish sculptures to trendy mundane objects equivalent to eyeglasses, canes, pipes, umbrellas and different objects that gave him pleasure.
Favourite discoveries
Housing one other fashion of artistry is Mercado de la a Boqueria, Barcelona’s fabulous, sprawling market. It’s situated about halfway up Las Ramblas and the lined market has one thing for almost everybody. You’ll be able to decide up freshly made picnic fare, baked items and juices, purchase recent fish, meat or produce, and/or stomach as much as a cafe-bar for seafood cooked proper in entrance of you. Different choices (I selected all, in the end): splurge on decadent pastries and sweet, and even purchase fancy meals items to your mates at dwelling.
Towards town’s park-like Vallvidrera neighborhood is CosmoCaixa, a science museum advanced. “Flooded Forest,” which re-creates a small patch of the Amazon rainforest, is an exhibit inside a glass-walled exhibit. Right here you could encounter an occasional rain bathe amid indigenous vegetation and creatures that embrace piranha and caimans. If you’re prepared for a nosh, head to Caelum (Latin for “heaven”), a bakery with lots of buzz. It makes a speciality of drinks and desserts made by monks and nuns from round Spain. The cafe opened a few decade in the past within the Gothic quarter and serves every thing from tea biscuits and cider truffles to beers made by Trappist monks.
Must know
Anticipate common every day temperatures within the mid- to higher 50s F, January via March. Cruise ships dock simply outdoors of town middle and also you’ll have to taxi into the center of Barcelona. Warning: Pickpockets are rampant in Barcelona, notably on Las Ramblas. Depart superb jewellery, fancy cameras and most of money in your cruise suite or resort room protected.
Good
Do you know that just a few years in the past, UNESCO designated Good because the “winter resort city of the Riviera?” A part of this pays a nod to its geography, bordered by the Mediterranean Sea and the mighty Alps. It’s additionally as a result of town is stuffed with cultural and historic museums and monuments and its local weather is comfy. Actually, Good-in-winter hasn’t been a secret since a minimum of the 1860s, when snowbirds, having found town was fairly good in cooler months, created the La Promenade des Anglais (the English Promenade).
Classics
The Musee d’Artwork Moderne et d’Artwork Contemporain, Good’s up to date artwork museum, showcases a group that spans from the Nineteen Fifties to in the present day, together with pop artwork, realism and extra. Don’t overlook to take a look at the rooftop exhibition area which has unbelievable views of town. Painter Henri Matisse was one in all Good’s legendary residents. Musee Matisse homes one of many largest assortment of his works (Musee Matisse is briefly closed from mid-February – late Might in 2024).
Marc Chagall was one other of the numerous artists who known as Good dwelling, and Musee Nacional Marc Chagall honors his dreamy, surreal works. Don’t miss the on-site bookshop, which along with carrying Chagall’s work in varied types (from books to prints to notebooks) additionally showcases jewellery and cultural artifacts.
Often known as Citadel Hill, the Parc de la Colline du Château has fabulous views of the ocean and metropolis from its perch about 300 ft above the Mediterranean. You’ll be able to hike as much as the park on the high — or take an elevator.
Different websites
Vieux Good, town’s previous city, is a wonderful warren of historical streets and homes, with galleries, boutiques and cafes. The Charles Nègre Pictures Museum affords non permanent monographic exhibitions and thematic exhibitions that vary from previous images to digital photos.
Favourite discoveries
Winter in Good, which has culinary influences from Italy in addition to France, is a good season to tuck into consolation meals, like daube niçoise (beef stew) and pistou soup (garlic, basil, olive oil however no pine nuts as with conventional Italian pesto). Drink hearty crimson wine from the area.
On the boutique perfumer Molinard, in previous Good, you’ll be able to take a category on mixing your personal signature scent.
Must know
Temperatures in Good from December to March common within the mid-50s F. Star Legend docks within the charming village of Villefranche; you’ll be able to take a take a ten minute practice to Good’s Good-Ville cease, join a Windstar shore tour or e book a taxi.
Rome
Throughout historical instances, the capital of Italy was the primary metropolis on this planet to notch a inhabitants of 1 million residents. These days the variety of folks within the metro space has quadrupled, but town stays near its historical self. Cafe-lined piazzas, Renaissance fountains, stylish style boutiques, landmark artworks and impressed eating places underscore the hyperlink between previous and current.
The classics
The Colosseum is the biggest historical amphitheater on this planet, holding greater than 50,000 folks at a time. It was accomplished in 80 AD. I attempt to think about the rows and rows of seats crammed, and followers cheering on — the lions or the gladiators? Greater than a decade in the past, scientists found traces of crimson, inexperienced and black paint on the Colosseum’s partitions, suggesting the constructing had extra vibrant colours of their day.
The town has about 200-plus fountains, with the Trevi Fountain being one of the vital standard with guests. It’s an 18th century Baroque rendering of Oceanus within the middle, standing amid tritons and a chariot pulled by seahorses. Put your again to the fountain, toss a coin in and make a want (such is the custom). To see extra of the world’s treasures, cross the river into Vatican Metropolis. St. Peter’s Cathedral, middle of the Catholic world, and the Sistine Chapel within the pope’s quarters subsequent door are must-sees.
Or take pleasure in a simple stroll amongst Piazza Navona, Piazza Farnese and Campo de’ Fiori and the Spanish Steps and simply soak within the ambiance.
Different key websites
For a whole departure from Rome’s historical and Renaissance previous, go to the museum dwelling of artist Giacomo Balla, often known as Casa Balla. Modern items of furnishings and art work are on show all through. Balla will not be a family identify however this oh-so modernist dwelling affords a little-known cease for design lovers. I perpetually advocate the Galleria Doria Pamphilj to mates visiting Rome. It’s a household dwelling stuffed with frescoes and statues that stand guard over closely mosaic flooring. As a result of so few folks know in regards to the museum, I really feel like a private visitor, stalking the halls of the grand constructing that’s been dwelling to the Doria Pamphilj household because the sixteenth century.
Favourite discoveries
The Capuchin Crypt, affectionately often known as the Bone Church, lives as much as its creepy moniker. Nobody fairly is aware of why the brothers of the Capuchin spiritual order saved the bones of 1000’s of members that had been buried between 1500 and 1870 — and embellished 5 chapels with creative shows of their skulls and scapula. The rooms are named for elements of the physique (Crypt of Skulls, Crypt of Pelvises, and so on.). The Capuchins, by the best way, really feel it’s not an oddity however quite a method for folks to mirror on their very own mortality.
If you wish to get a pleasant overview of town, head to division retailer Rinascenti, which has a captivating alfresco bar and cafe on the roof.
Must know
Daytime temperatures in January via March are in excessive 50s to low 60s F which will drop into the excessive 30s to the low 40s F at night time. Cruise ships dock in Civitavecchia, lower than 50 miles away. (Specific practice service to Rome takes about 40 minutes and Windstar affords a “Rome by yourself” motorcoach switch from ship to metropolis and again. )
Athens
Few cities have given as a lot to the world as Athens. The town’s tenets of philosophy, literature, artwork and structure unfold all through the West throughout classical instances. The traditional world continues to tell the current, a vibe you’ll be able to really feel even on an off-the-cuff stroll across the metropolis.
Classics
The Acropolis is town’s hottest vacationer attraction and one in all its oldest. I’ve walked the grounds of the long-lasting fortress on a hilltop and thought in regards to the crumbling buildings wrecked by battle, rocked by earthquakes and reimagined by rulers who tore down previous shrines. I’ve additionally seen trendy renderings displaying what the spectacular assortment of buildings would have seemed like in its day.
Visiting the Acropolis helps me higher recognize the Parthenon and Temple of Athena Polias, whose pillars are constructed of feminine statues, often known as caryatids. The close by Acropolis Museum, which opened 15 years in the past, affords context to the greater than 4,000 artifacts discovered on the website. It’s a very good place to be taught in regards to the Acropolis and modifications over the accompanying historic eras, from the Greek Bronze Age to the Roman and Byzantine eras.
If you need a extra colourful understanding of the sweeping position that artwork and antiquities has performed in historical Grecian historical past and past, you can spend all the day at The Nationwide Archeological Museum. Its items span the intervals of geometric, archaic, classical and Hellenic intervals, and what resonates for me is the best way these items inform tales about life in these explicit eras. Be certain that to cease by the museum’s cafe, which options reveals of extra up to date creative expression.
Different key websites
On a transparent day (in winter or in any other case) Lycabettus Hill, which, rising some 1,000 ft, is the best level in Athens. It affords breathtaking views from metropolis to sea and you’ll climb up, take the tram, or rent a taxi. And Syntagma Sq., the central sq. of town, has a beautiful location. It’s bordered on one aspect by the Greek Parliament and on one other by the start of town’s key procuring district. Close by is the Benaki Museum of Greek Tradition, which showcases artwork from historical to trendy instances.
Favourite discoveries
A variety of eating places in Athens provide views of the Acropolis however one in all my regulars there, due to its very good views, day and night time, and out of doors seating, is the GB Roof Backyard Restaurant, atop the historic (and fairly stunning) Grande Bretagne. You’ll be able to have a meal or stomach as much as the bar (or higher but, snag a bar desk on the balcony), sip rose, snack on connoisseur Greek tapas, and simply breathe. Athens’ Central Market is one other great spot to sip or snack, in a extra boisterous ambiance.
Ilias Lalaounis was a jeweler who created elaborate and beautiful gold jewellery with themes impressed by historical Greece. It’s value taking a bling break to swing by his workshop, which has been changed into a jewellery museum. Inside are shows of his yellow gold creations in addition to some Olympic torches he designed. If you’re able to fast-forward in time, head to the museum run by the Basil and Elise Goulandris Basis. The couple collected 180 works of up to date and trendy artwork that features impressionists Claude Monet and Vincent Van Gogh in addition to up to date artists Francis Bacon and Roy Lichtenstein.
Must know
In January via March, anticipate daytime temperatures within the excessive 50s F and lows within the mid 40s. Cruise ships dock on the Port of Piraeus, about seven miles outdoors town. When you’re feeling adventurous, take the Pireaus metro to Syntagma Sq. (in any other case, a taxi is your higher guess).
Editor’s Notice: Windstar’s Star Legend is providing winter Mediterranean cruises in 2024 and thru the season in 2025. The first itinerary sails between Rome’s Civitavecchia and Barcelona, with calls at Marseilles, Livorno (for Florence) and Good. A handful of sailings concentrate on Spanish ports, departing from Barcelona and heading to Valencia, Malaga, Palma de Mallorca, Malaga and Cartagena (together with Gibraltar).
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