‘Lava explodes way up into the sky above us’

Our hulls reduce by the translucent waters of the lagoon round Fiji’s largest island, Viti Levu. As we make our manner in the direction of the cross, the wind is an ideal 10 knots. I catch my companion Jim’s eye; he grins again at me. We’ve spent weeks ready for this climate window. The forecast is for a cushty, downwind passage with wind as much as 25 knots and a average swell from behind that ought to assist push us alongside to Tanna Island, Vanuatu.

White uneven currents swirl like boiling water within the cross. My abdomen churns, however we’ve been by so many passes within the Pacific I inform myself there’s nothing to concern. Up forward our good friend on a catamaran – certainly one of a number of boats to depart in the identical climate window – has two reefs in his mainsail and I’m wondering if there’s something we don’t know? We’re within the wind shadow of the island, however from the place we’re situations look average. However, we furl away our genoa to maintain life easy as we exit the lagoon.

I take a second to look again on the island’s define because it shrinks in our wake. We’ve spent three months exploring Fiji, but it surely’s October and the time has come to depart. After Vanuatu, we’re sure for Australia the place we’ll spend cyclone season and fulfil bucket listing goals to anchor beside the Opera Home to observe New 12 months’s Eve fireworks. That every one feels a good distance simply now.

Fiji to Vanuatu

Via the cross and farther from Viti Levu, the wind begins to clock round, shifting by 90° to our port beam and intensifying. Within the distance two monohulls heel over and I can see gusts agitating the floor of the water, barrelling in the direction of us. Jim calmly helms our Catana 47 Polaris, protecting the obvious wind pace down till it’s secure to reef.

Finally, with sufficient clearance from the jagged outer reef, we flip into the wind and put two reefs within the mainsail. Inside fifteen minutes it’s blowing 35 knots. Circumstances are messy and we’re bombarded by violent, 4m swells that hit us aspect on. These are the most important waves we’ve ever sailed in, and so they virtually take my breath away.

We’ve solely been below manner for 3 hours once we contemplate turning again. Who of their proper thoughts would select to be out right here, I’m wondering? However, the ocean behind us is so vicious it makes heading again into these waves a worse prospect than persevering with on. We’re additionally below stress to make some miles earlier than cyclone season begins to heat up, and so we determine to persevere.

What the cruising way of life is all about: the proper South Pacific anchorage. Photograph: James Hooper & Kate Ashe-Leonard

I attempt to regulate to those harsh situations. Tethered in, each step is fastidiously positioned and each handhold is utilised.

For the second time in 5 years, a rogue wave crashes into the cockpit, saturating us each. Soaked, I duck inside to seize some towels – the inside of the boat is in disarray: cabinets have unlatched and dumped their contents on the ground; fastidiously stowed objects have managed to interrupt free and profession throughout the saloon. I’d precooked a big stew to be reheated however as night approaches the ocean state deteriorates additional, suppressing each our appetites.

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A wall of navy water repeatedly picks up Polaris and jolts us sideways earlier than we crash down into its trough: a degree so low we can’t see the horizon. We take turns hand steering to forestall the autopilot changing into overpowered. We are saying little to at least one one other, as a substitute focussing on the devices and silently keen the situations to average.

A skipper’s voice crackles out and in between static on the VHF radio. He has misplaced his rudder and has no Satphone communications. With some restricted steering, he decides to show again to Fiji. He can’t hear our response and we can’t discover him on AIS.

I dread to think about the ordeal he’s dealing with. We e mail all of the close by sailors in Fiji that we all know together with his particulars and phone the coast guard on his behalf.

Sleeping for me is an impossibility, the sound and vibration of waves ricocheting between our hulls is just too startling. However, come morning, the worst has handed: daybreak is greeted by tranquil seas, and fewer than eight knots of wind. We shake out the reefs within the mainsail, unfurl the Code 0, and path each fishing strains out. Peace has returned to Polaris.

Spinnaker flying in climate that’s good for crusing. Photograph: James Hooper & Kate Ashe-Leonard

The calm situations transform brief lived. On the second morning we expertise winds of over 35 knots once more and are pounded by confused seas. We race alongside at 10 knots whereas the boat groans and creaks round us. We’re tense, protecting an in depth eye on the rig and sails however every little thing appears to be fantastic. I remind myself that we’re effectively outfitted for this, and the boat is just too.

Mount Yasur

We sail the final eight hours with solely a tiny sliver of genoa out to sluggish ourselves and guarantee a daybreak arrival into Vanuatu. The island of Tanna comes into view.

After a testing 470 miles we’re aching and coated in bruises, however breathe a sigh of reduction as we drop our sails and make our closing flip into Port Decision.

The anchorage is beautiful. We’re surrounded by each white and black sand seashores bathed in heat morning daylight. Coconut palms and tropical fruit timber line the rugged coast.

Simply above water stage, volcanic steam puffs sporadically from vents: we’re proper beside Mount Yasur, one of many world’s most lively volcanoes which has been erupting repeatedly since 1774.

Waves break on the reef exterior the cross on departure from Fiji. Photograph: James Hooper & Kate Ashe-Leonard

Ashore we start the formalities of checking in – a prolonged course of as Port Decision isn’t an official port of entry so that you want particular permission prematurely to land, then should await the officers’ arrival. There are selfmade picket fishing canoes alongside the seaside and we’re greeted by native youngsters paddling within the shallows.

As soon as checked in, we discover ashore. Life is remarkably easy right here; the village is ready round a inexperienced subject with huts comprised of thatched palm fronds, and no operating water or electrical energy. Solely crimson grime tracks join the primary villages to at least one one other.

We meet a bunch of cruisers within the makeshift crusing membership, and collectively rent a four-wheel-drive to go to Mount Yasur the next night.

The monitor is bumpy and turns into blacker as we drive by volcanic ash approaching the volcano. Our information leads us on foot to its rim as darkness falls.

The molten lava bubbles deep within the crater and I discover big boulders strewn throughout the place we stand. They will need to have been catapulted at some earlier date and function a reminder that we’re right here totally at our personal danger. I really feel a primal concern of the volcano.

Out of Fiji, tough climate and massive waves had been testing on passage to Vanuatu. Photograph: James Hooper & Kate Ashe-Leonard

Wanting over the aspect for a second, we’re a whole lot of metres above its fiery pit. Sure dying is only a minor avalanche away.

I step again from the brink, heeding its warning rumbles. Lava explodes manner up into the sky above us. With our pores and skin coated in ash and the air heavy with the odor of sulphur, it’s an immersive and uncooked expertise. No person speaks – we’re all in awe.

Again on the crusing membership, a brand new thought emerges amongst our little band of Pacific voyagers. We’ll sail to Australia through New Caledonia as a substitute of immediately from Vanuatu. There’s a cyclone forming north of the Solomon Islands which may spin this fashion, making us really feel the necessity for a hasty departure. As well as, we’re all nonetheless somewhat shell shocked from the extreme passage right here – this route through Noumea ought to enhance our crusing angle for the onward passage to Bundaberg. It additionally will get us 200 miles nearer so we’ll have a shorter closing passage – and hopefully a extra dependable climate forecast.

Wanting over the rim of the volcano, Mount Yasur on the islanbd of Tanna, Vanuatu. Photograph: James Hooper & Kate Ashe-Leonard

Vanuatu to Noumea

We weigh anchor at sundown and, with simply sufficient gentle remaining, navigate our manner out of the anchorage – straight into the waves that break head on. My limbs really feel heavy as we trim the sails; I’m exhausted. However across the nook of Tanna Island, we flip downwind and I’m relieved by the gentler rhythm that makes sleeping simpler.

The nights are colder as we head south. Down beneath, Jim lies below a cover for the primary time in years whereas I stand on the helm in a thick jumper.

On the chartplotter, I zoom out, tracing our monitor again east, reminiscing about our stops alongside the best way. We’ve explored among the Pacific, the Caribbean, the Atlantic and the Mediterranean. We’ve come a good distance, simply the 2 of us.

I heat my fingers on a mug of tea and watch the moon rise. Above, the sky is evident and full of a light-weight present of stars, glowing planets and satellites in orbit.

Come morning, the odor of espresso wafts into the cabin as I wake from my off-watch. Jim calls “Land Ho!” and I be a part of him on deck as we enter the cross and strategy islands lined with New Caledonia’s majestic pine timber.We spot a flash of crimson on the foot of some very excessive cliffs and take turns trying by our binoculars. It’s a person. We’re too distant to make out particulars, but it surely doesn’t appear proper that he’s there.

Our fatigue is swiftly changed by adrenalin once we realise he’s in hassle. We circle again however the waves are too ferocious for us to get shut.

Jim Hooper on the wheel of Polaris. Photograph: James Hooper & Kate Ashe-Leonard

A noise overhead turns into louder: the unmistakable and deafening roar of a helicopter’s rotor blades. We watch as they circle, attempting to land a number of instances. It’s inconceivable, although, and the helicopter is proscribed to simply hovering a number of toes above the water.

We attempt them on the VHF radio however there’s no reply, then the helicopter is simply above our heads, the pilot gesturing for us to try to rescue the person earlier than it banks away and disappears.

We’re in a position to manoeuvre Polaris to inside 60m of the cliff base, and inside 20 minutes the person is clambering aboard, shivering and in shock, having paddled his kayak (which at first we didn’t realise he had) by the waves to achieve us earlier than Polaris was blown again in the direction of the rocks. He’s unable to say a lot to start with, however repeatedly thanks us, and later manages a espresso and a few toast.

It seems he has been trying to circumnavigate New Caledonia on his kayak. In a storm he capsized however swam, dragging all of his issues for a number of kilometres till he reached the foot of the cliffs. Getting away from the land as a result of waves was inconceivable so he’d been stranded for over 24 hours.

Quietly we motor sail the ultimate 5 hours to Noumea, the capital of New Caledonia, the place he’s reunited with a good friend again on dry land.

New 12 months’s Eve fireworks at Sydney Harbour Bridge seen from an anchorage subsequent to the Opera Home – a bucket listing ambition for Kate Ashe-Leonard and John Hooper. Photograph: James Hooper & Kate Ashe-Leonard

New Caledonia to Australia

Strain is severely mounting for us to achieve Australia. The tropical cyclone we’ve been monitoring since Tanna Island is now predicted to be Class 5 in power and its path remains to be very unsure. There may be additionally a low stress system on its manner up the east coast of Australia with forecast winds of as much as a most of 60 knots.

If we time our closing 800-mile passage improper, we could possibly be caught by both climate system.

Fortunately, with gentle winds anticipated for the subsequent 5 or 6 days en-route to Bundaberg, we must always get in forward of the dangerous climate, however we must preserve a mean boat pace of six knots.

We hoist our crimson spinnaker and set off simply three days after arriving in New Caledonia. The ocean state is peaceable and gives a relaxed surroundings for studying, reflection and planning for Australia.

All through this closing leg of our Pacific voyage, we navigate round opposed currents and dodge seamounts which create unusual currents and waves, whereas motor-sailing downwind. On my night time watch, I savour these final miles and take heed to the sound of the water that gushes and splashes in our wake.

Fraser Island north of Brisbane in Queensland, Australia, is the most important sand island on this planet. Photograph: James Hooper & Kate Ashe-Leonard

Time slips by effortlessly and on day six, Queensland’s coast glows within the distance. The top of our Pacific passage is actually in sight, and we have now made it safely to our vacation spot simply in time.

From departing Panama to Bundaberg, Australia, we’ve spent 59 days and nights at sea – solely a minority of these have been exceptionally difficult, most have been tranquil, even routine.

Crusing this ocean has made us higher companions and the harder days have made us extra expert sailors, adept at coping in tense conditions.

The ocean continues to thrill us, and endlessly educate us. I’ll miss our wild adventures within the unspoilt islands of the South Pacific, however now the huge continent of Australia beckons.

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